There are many articles on this difference and of course will  be influenced by the individual, who may have trained as a tailor or have no tailoring skills whatsoever. Originally the phrase “to bespoke your cloth”; would have been used by a bespoke tailor who would drape the length of fabric over the customer and then bespoke the garment for the customer. This is a process that continues to this very day

Bespoke tailoring is a garment that will be cut entirely by hand, the customer will have 30+ measurements taken and a paper pattern cut. Once cut, the garment will be put together by hand and machined as a first fitting or skeleton fitting (entirely by hand). The customer is then fitted by the cutter, it may be that parts of the garment are taken apart during the fitting (sleeves taken out, shoulders undone etc..). This is to allow the cutter to re-mould the garment at the fitting stage and mark it with chalk and pins. The objective is to observe and improve the fitting, in order to create an update to be applied to the paper pattern

The cutter will undo the garment, having noted all changes and apply to the pattern. Once the fabric has been flattened, the next stage is to re-mark the garment with the updated pattern and so applying all updates for an advanced fit. A 2nd fitting is put together and will confirm the updates from the cutter and most importantly allow any final changes before being finished. This maybe sleeve length, shoulder width and slight balance. The paper pattern will be updated once again for any future orders

The garment is now put together to be finished by the tailor(s), this is where the bespoke hand work of the garment takes place. Different houses have slightly different methods and these will reflect their style and ultimately finished product. The foundations of a bespoke garment will include body canvass padded by hand or machine, a chest piece with horse hair and domette, sleeves sewn by hand, hand button holes and lining inside, sewn by hand or machined. Overall the garment reflects over 30 hours of workmanship